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Sumba - Lesser Sunda

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Indonesia has many islands but Sumba is not one on the regular list of to be visited. It does get its share of tourism but for most of the average travelers it's too far out.

Traditional Sumbanese village

Sumba is one of the Lesser Sunda Islands. There is a dry season from May to November and a rainy season from December to April. Historically, this island exported sandalwood and was known as Sandalwood Island. The population is just over half million. The largest town on the island is Waingapu, where the ferries land and where you will find hotels and hostels.

One of the many Sumbanese villages at the beach

The people at Sumba have mixed Malay and Melanesian ancestors. 25-30% of the population practices the animist Marapu religion. The remainder are Christian, a majority being Dutch Calvinist, but a substantial minority being Roman Catholic. Along the coast you will find some suni Muslims. Both the Christians and Muslims on these islands combine their faiths with Marapu.

The traditional thatched peaked houses in Sumba (uma) are quite commonly found.

Despite the influence of western religions, Sumba is one of the few places in the world in which megalithic burials, are used as a 'living tradition' to inter prominent individuals when they die. Burial in megaliths is a practice that was used in many parts of the world during the Neolithic and Bronze Ages, but has survived to this day in Sumba.

Beaches at Sumba are of unimaginable beauty

In February and Marche the Pasola festival is held. It is the name of ancient war ritual war festival by two groups of selected Sumbanese men. They riding their colorful decorated selected horses fling wooden spears at each other. This traditional ceremony held in the way of uniquely and sympathetically traditional norms. Unfortunately I have not witnessed it myself (I was in Sumba in September).

The island is famous for its arts and handicrafts, particularly the textile "ikat" weaving.

Ikat weaving in one of the villages

Accommodation and Hotels in Sumba

Sumba's main town, Waingapu, has some basic guesthouses. If you travel on your own, you will be probably awaited by some of the owners or representatives when you arrive at the airport or by ferry from Ende.

Nihiwatu Resort

For more up-market hotels, we recommend the Nihiwatu Resort. The resort is located on a beautiful secluded bay on the remote southwestern coast of the island. There are bungalows two-bedroom villas, all of which have been hand built by Indonesian craftsmen in traditional style but with all the comforts you can wish for.

One traveler says: "I just returned last week from the best holiday I have ever had. I spent a week at the resort with my boyfriend, we have both travelled extensively around the world and were both looking for somewhere with great beaches, somewhere exciting with culture and somewhere luxurious, Nihiwatu more than exceeded our expectations."

Book NOW your room at the Nihiwatu Resort in Sumba.

Inside the traditional Sumbanese houses

Sumba Nautil Resort

Another option might be the Sumba Nautil Resort which located on the south western coast of the Sumba Island. While lodging here scuba diving, snorkeling, and fishing are amongst the possible things to do.

One travelers wrote: ""It is a great mix of comfort and adventure. Sumba is a wonderful island and this hotel is the best place to discover the local culture and tremendous beaches. The owner of the hotel can escort you to local village where you can get to know the Marapu tradition. The food is great too (either local or western) A great place to stay that we recommend strongly. "

Book NOW your room at the Sumba Nautil Resort.

Getting there and away

There are two entrance point to Sumba island: Waingapu in east Sumba (airport & harbor ) and Tambolaka airport or Waekelo harbor in west Sumba. Flights are not always reliable.

There are boats to Flores (Ende) and Timor (Kupang), There is also a ferry from Sape to Waekolo (near Waitabula). Ships can take bicycles and motorbikes.

Getting around

If you stay in Waingapu, you will probably be able to join a day tour from your hotel. This goes by taxi. However, you can easy get a taxi or motorbike on your own. For those who can stand the heat, Sumba is hilly but a good challenge for cyclists.

Back to the top of Sumba

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