South Thailand and North West Malaysia

From Hat Yai to Perlis, Alor Setar and Penang

Cycling in Thailand is always a nice things to do. South Thailand and North West Malaysia are areas easily overlooked by mainstream tourists, especially the Malaysian states Perlis and Kedah. And that's really a shame.

City center of Hat Yai

Sure, people go to Krabi and Phuket, beach lovers visit Ko Samui and Ko Phanghan but few take the energy to visit less known areas as Hat Yai, Yala or Betong. The reason is simply, south Thailand has a bad name of bomb attacks a small group of extremist Muslims. Personally I still think London or Paris are far more dangerous in crime and street danger with all the traffic but who would believe me?

Hat Yai - Perlis - Kedah - Penang

The quickest way to get from Hat Yai in Thailand to Malaysia is simply: follow the road out of Hat Yai South to Sadao and Padang Besar (59km from Hat Yai town center).

The road to the border is big and busy and mostly unpleasant with the exception of the last 12 km from Sadao to Padang Besar.

It is a road which has a few minor hills although there's a few nasty short ones near Padang Besar.

Most travelers know Padang Besar from the railway border crossing. However, there are three border crossings: railway, buses and cars and one in Padang Besar town center, which is the one you will want to use. Service is excellent and quick (as usual). When you cycle this way, make sure you take the junction in Sadao to Padang Besar Town which is going right. Continuing straight leads to the border for buses, cars and motorbikes but not for bicycles.

On the way to Sadao

Perlis is one of the smallest states in Malaysia and mostly overlooked. There's some nice caves to visit but there's not a lot to keep you busy for a long time. On the way to Kangar you might pass the ostrich farm and some nice sceneries of the rivers with views to the hills in Thailand. Just north of the city is a crocodile farm, and even an ostrich breeding station, just along the road.

Ostrich farm in Perlis
A small ostrich farm in north Perlis

After the border it is 35 km to Kangar through a very pleasant and quiet road (cars and buses from Hat Yai use the motorway so you won't have them around). There is accommodation available in Kangar

You can get a ferry to Langkawi here too and if you want to visit Langkawi, this is probably the shortest distance.

Some cyclist choose to cycle to Satun and take the ferry here to Langkawi to avoid the "boring" areas of Perlis and Kedah. Ferries to and from Langkawi leave 2 times a day, boat (B250) straight to Langkawi. From Langkawi you can take the boat to Penang (RM 50 one way). More details at out Cycling at Langkawi page and the road from Surat Thai to Satun.

It is possible to cycle Hat Yai - Kangar - Alor Setar in one day but as said, you can stay a night in Kangar, which is worth doing. The next big city, already in Kedah, is Alor Setar.

Street life in Alor Setar

Although Alor Setar is a relatively big city, even with an airport, there's not a lot that will keep you busy for more then an afternoon. The city center is a typical shopping center with little exciting.

The Great Mosque of Alor Setar

What is quite nice is the Great Zahir Mosque which was built in 1912. On the plaza around the Mosque you will find the Big Clock Building

Alor Setar was founded in founded in 1735 by Kedah’s 19th Ruler, Sultan Muhammad Jiwa Zainal Adilin Mu’azzam Shah and is the state’s eighth administrative centre since the establishment of the Kedah Sultanate in 1136. The earlier administrative centers were located in Kota Bukit Meriam, Kota Sungai Emas, Kota Siputeh, Kota Naga, Kota Sena, Kota Indera Kayangan and Kota Bukit Pinang. Despite its age, there's not a lot left of the old city.

Alor Setar around the Zahir Mosque

You can take a ferry from Kuala Kedah, a few km's away which is the port for regular ferries to Langkawi.

On the K1 from Kuala Kedah to Yan

Even if you don't want to go to Langkawi, I suggest you take this road anyway. In Kuala Kedah, you can take a local road further (K1) along the coast passing rice fields and kampongs.

Left: view of the north side of Gunung Jerai (from the K1)
Right: Steep slope of Guning Jerai on the far west
side of the mountain on the way top Pekan Yan