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Lijiang, North Yunnan

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Lijiang is one of the most popular travel destinations in China. It's not for nothing, the old town, even though nowadays a big new city is build next to the old town, is still a spectacular sight. The old town is rebuild in the 1990's after an earthquake and with a few spectacular sights this is the major tourist destination in Yunnan.

The name "Lijiang" means "beautiful river", the city lies near the Jinsha River in a huge valley with the Yulong Snow Mountain overseeing the valley.

The city is the center of the Naxi culture, one of the many minorities living in this part of China. Other minorities are Bai (their center is Dali), Lisu, Pumi, Yi, Tibetan, Miao, Hui and Han.

History of Lijiang

The Ancient town of Lijiang was built in the middle of the flatlands at the foot of the Yulong Snow Mountain. It got its name "Dayan Zheng" (the Town of Big Ink Slab). The valley is surrounded by tree-covered mountains on all sides with crystal clear water running in the middle of it. It has the appearance of a big jade ink slab. The valley is located at an altitude of 2400 meters.

The town was built in the late Song dynasty and the early Yuan dynasty. Since then, it has been the political, cultural, and educational center in this area. For a time, it had been an important trading center for business between Yunnan and Tibet, China and India. The Naxi culture is still linked to Tibetan culture. In the vicinity of Lijiang there are some Tibetan monasteries, one of them is an almost forgotten and in poorly state Red Hat monastery.

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Things to do in Lijiang

The first time I was in Lijiang the new city was still being build. It consisted of only 3 streets and the old town was still being rebuild after an earthquake in the mid 80's. Nowadays the new city has over a million people while the old town is part of Historical and Cultural Heritage in China and it has been included in the World Cultural Heritage.

The roads in the old town radiate from Sifang Street (Square Street) to form a network connecting every corner of the city. Small squares are scattered along appropriate sections of the main streets. Houses have been built on the mountain slopes tier upon tier. "The city depends on water for existence and water comes along with the city" has become one of the main features of the old town. This is the place you want to be.

Wandering through the small streets is one of the must things. The Naxi people keep their culture in many ways. Dongba culture is an integral part of Naxi culture, referred to as the ancient culture of the ethnic Naxi. It is called so because it is mostly found in the Dongba religion, which is believed to be one thousand years old. It mainly consists of scriptures, paintings, music, dances, ritual implements and religious services.

And it is that music which is one of the other things to do. Every night you can visit a musical show of traditional Naxi music, unique in China.

A few years ago I visited Lijiang at Womens day. People from many surrounding villages came to People's Square to celebrate this with singing, dancing, eating and, of course shopping.

The old town contains guesthouses in traditional Naxi style and they are worth to check out. Food is plentiful and most of the restaurants in the old town serve western and Naxi food. There is no need to stay or eat in the new town.

Hotels in Lijiang

The old and the new town have plenty of good accommodation available. See our hotels in Lijiang page for some ideas where to stay.

Around Lijiang

We cyclists have an advantage, we have already our bicycles, and in the valley of Lijiang there is plenty to cycle. If you don't have a bike, you can easily hire on for a few yuen per day.

Cycling to Baisha is what many people do. Baisha is an obvious choice. It's not far and you will cycle through a beautiful flat lands, seeing the local farmers at work. Baisha is probably what Lijiang used to be.

A popular daytrip goes to Mount Yulong, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The top of this mountain is at 5600 meters altitude and covered in snow the whole year around. The area has many gems, not in the last place in terms of nature. One fourth of all plant species in China can be found here and 20 primeval forest communities shelter a big family of 400 types of trees and 30 kinds of animals which are protected by the state.

It's a popular spot for sightseeing and there is a cable car running. Entrance charge Y80, worth the visit but bring warm clothes.

The countryside of Lijiang

It's a popular spot for sightseeing and there is a cable car running. Entrance charge Y80, worth the visit but bring warm clothes.

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Another very popular destination and a great hike. Read more about Tiger Leaping Gorge here

Lugu lake

Further North East, 200 km, lies Lugu Lake. This area is less visited. The lake is the center of the Mosuo culture, a matriarchal society.There is no marriage. Men stay in the women's home as mates called 'Axia' and the intimate relationship lasts as long as they like.

Children are brought up by women, and use the surname of their mothers. Families are composed of the members of the matrilineal kin. Women operate production and management, and hold the principal position in the society, forming a modern day 'woman's kingdom', which adds mystique to this place.

To explore Lugu Lake, I would suggest you stay at least two nights here. There's an entrance fee for Lugu Lake: Y78.

After rebuilding Lijiang in the 1990's, the old town became a hot tourist spot. It soon overshadowed Dali as the main place to visit in this part of Yunnan. And even though Lijiang is now such a tourist attraction, you even have to pay a Y40 entrance fee for the old town (Protection Fare of the Old Town), it is still worth the effort to come here.

Washing your parrot, at Central Square

I spend several times here, including the New Years Eve of 2000 which was cold but joyful. I can recommend Lijiang as one of the best sights in China.

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