Lijiang
is one of the most popular
travel destinations in China. It's not for nothing, the old town, even
though nowadays a big new city is build next to the old town, is still a
spectacular sight. The old town is rebuild in the 1990's after an
earthquake and with a few spectacular sights this is the major tourist
destination in Yunnan.
The name "Lijiang" means "beautiful river", the city lies near the
Jinsha River in a huge valley with the Yulong Snow Mountain overseeing the
valley. The city is the center of the Naxi culture, one of the many
minorities living in this part of China. Other minorities are Bai (their
center is Dali), Lisu, Pumi, Yi, Tibetan, Miao, Hui and Han.

Probably my favorite picture I made in China, the Black Dragon Lake in
Lijiang, on the back Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Mt. Yulong)
History of Lijiang
The Ancient town of Lijiang was built in the
middle of the flatlands at the foot of the Yulong Snow Mountain. It got its
name "Dayan Zheng" (the Town of Big Ink Slab). The valley is
surrounded by tree-covered mountains on all sides with crystal clear water
running in the middle of it. It has the appearance of a big jade ink slab.
The valley is located at an altitude of 2400 meters.

Naxi people in Lijiang
The town was built in the late Song dynasty
and the early Yuan dynasty. Since then, it has been the political,
cultural, and educational center in this area. For a time, it had been an
important trading center for business between Yunnan and Tibet, China and
India. The Naxi culture is still linked to Tibetan culture. In the
vicinity of Lijiang there are some Tibetan monasteries, one of them is an
almost forgotten and in poorly state Red Hat monoastery.

The Red Hat Monastery in the vicinity of Lijiang
Things to do in Lijiang
The first time I was in Lijiang the new city was still
being build. It consisted of only 3 streets and the old town was still
being rebuild after an earthquake in the mid 80's. Nowadays the new city
has over a million people while the old town is part of Historical and Cultural Heritage in China
and it has been included in the World Cultural Heritage.
|

Music is an integral part of the Naxi Culture, here a flutist on
Womens Day at Peoples Square |
The roads in the
old town radiate from Sifang Street (Square Street) to form a network
connecting every corner of the city. Small squares are scattered along
appropriate sections of the main streets. Houses have been built on the
mountain slopes tier upon tier. "The city depends on water for existence
and water comes along with the city" has become one of the main features
of the old town. This is the place you want to be.
Wandering through the small streets is one of the must
things. The Naxi people keep their culture in many ways. Dongba culture is an integral part of Naxi culture, referred to as the
ancient culture of the ethnic Naxi. It is called so because it is mostly
found in the Dongba religion, which is believed to be one thousand years
old. It mainly consists of scriptures, paintings, music, dances, ritual
implements and religious services.
And it is that music which is one of the other things to
do. Every night you can visit a musical show of traditional Naxi music,
unique in China.
A few years ago I visited Lijiang at Womens day. People from many
surrounding villages came to People's Square to celebrate this with
singing, dancing, eating and, of course shopping.

Celebration of Womens Day, Lijiang
The old town contains guesthouses in traditional Naxi
style and they are worth to check out. Food is plentiful and most of the
restaurants in the old town serve western and Naxi food. There is no need
to stay or eat in the new town.

Central square in the old town
Around Lijiang
We cyclists have an advantage, we have already our
bicycles, and in the valley of Lijiang there is plenty to cycle. If you
don't have a bike, you can easily hire on for a few yuen per day.
Cycling to Baisha is what many people do. Baisha is an
obvious choice. It's not far and you will cycle through a beautiful flat
lands, seeing the local farmers at work. Baisha is probably what Lijiang
used to be.

The countryside of Lijiang
A popular daytrip goes to Mount Yulong, Jade Dragon Snow
Mountain. The top of this mountain is at 5600 meters altitude and covered
in snow the whole year around. The area has many gems, not in the last
place in terms of nature. One fourth of all plant species in China can be
found here and 20 primeval forest communities shelter a big family of 400
types of trees and 30 kinds of animals which are protected by the state.
It's a popular spot for sightseeing and there is a cable
car running. Entrance charge Y80, worth the visit but bring warm clothes.

Washing your parrot, at Central Square
Tiger Leaping Gorge
Another very popular destination and a great hike.
Read
more about Tiger Leaping Gorge here
Lugu lake
Further North East, 200 km, lies Lugu Lake. This area is
less visited. The lake is the center of the Mosuo culture, a matriarchal
society.There is no marriage. Men stay in the women's home as mates called
'Axia' and the intimate relationship lasts as long as they like. Children
are brought up by women, and use the surname of their mothers. Families
are composed of the members of the matrilineal kin. Women operate
production and management, and hold the principal position in the society,
forming a modern day 'woman's kingdom', which adds mystique to this place.
To explore Lugu Lake, I would suggest you stay at least
two nights here. There's an entrance fee for Lugu Lake: Y78.
After rebuilding Lijiang in the 1990's, the old town
became a hot tourist spot. It soon overshadowed Dali as the main place to
visit in this part of Yunnan. And even though Lijiang is now such a
tourist attraction, you even have to pay a Y40 entrance fee for the old
town (Protection Fare of the Old Town), it is still worth the effort to
come here.
I spend several times here, including the New Years Eve of
2000 which was cold but joyful. I can recommend Lijiang as one of the best
sights in China.
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