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Ho Chi Minh City, Cu Chi Tunnels & Cao Dai Temple


Ho Chi Minh City or Saigon is certainly not my favorite place in Vietnam. Although the city is several hundred years old and the largest city in Vietnam with over 9 million citizens, there is little to keep you there. There are some nice temples, the main post office might be worth a short visit but the main attractions in Ho Chi Minh City are around the city.

Transport in the city is at best chaotic. The continuing noise of motorbikes, buses, trucks and cars plus the never ending honking horns does not increase the pleasure of staying, not to mention the pollution.

Ho Chi Minh City has plenty of hotels in midrange and top end classes. Backpackers usually head for the Pham Ngu Lao district, look for the "Khach San" Hotel sign, hotels for around $10-15 a night (of course you can bargain it down).

Street scene in Ho Chi Minh City
Street scene in Ho Chi Minh City

More up-market hotels include Empress Hotel Ho Chi Minh, the Le Duy Hotel Ho Chi Minh (a really good deal!) and the more basic  Hong Vy 1 Hotel Ho Chi Minh which is a very good deal for the money.

The reason why you should not skip Ho Chi Minh City (as it was called in 1976) are two sites worth a visit: the Cu Chi tunnels and the Cao Dai Temple. Both can be visited in a day trip from Saigon.

Both attractions are located north west of Ho Chi Minh City and easy accessible by bus although joining a tour from Saigon is probably easier.

Bicycle shops

Basic repairs can be done at almost every street corner as many Vietnamese have a bicycle too. There are bicycle shops on Vo Thi Sau street in District 3. There is also one next to the New World Hotel on Le Thanh Ton Street which is probably the best choice. However, to be on the safe side, bring your own materials if you don't want to rely on the local materials.

Accommodation and Hotels in Ho Chi Minh City

Compared to other areas, cheap hotels are sparser to find then in other cities in Vietnam. However, there is a wide range of hotels available. Check our recommendations for hotels in Saigon.

Find a hotel in Vietnam

The Cu Chi tunnels

The Cu Chi tunnels are a 121 km long complex of tunnels which the Vietcong used in the Vietnam War. The tunnels have been pre been preserved by the government of Vietnam, and turned into a war memorial park.

The tunnels were extensive and life was certainly not easy. As far as I was told, the Vietcong guerilla had no maps of the tunnels as a precaution in case someone was taken hostage.

Entrance to the Cu Chi Tunnels
Entrance to the Cu Chi Tunnels

The tunnels have a complex 3 layer system including conference rooms, sleeping areas, kitchens and booby traps. A part of the complex is widened and made accessible as a tourist attraction.

During the war, the tunnels were a constant thread to the Americans. They tried to map the tunnels with "tunnel rats", who eventually would recover a Vietcong headquarters. Later the area was heavily bombed too.

Inside the Cu Chi tunnelsGoing into the tunnels and actually experience a bit of life underground is a lifetime experience. Many of the Vietcong guerillas didn't come above the ground for weeks. The darkness plus the malaria that killed many of the Vietcong, only increases the respect one should have for the determination of the guerilla, regardless if you are in favor of their cause. A must visit!

The Cao Dai Temple

Cao Dai is a monotheistic religion established in 1926. The center of the Cao Dai is the Cao Dai's Holy See or Tay Ninh Holy See, a huge and very beautiful temple, located in Tay Ninh.

The ideas of the Cao Dai (meaning "high place") are based on the Three Teachings.

  • Buddha
  • Sage (Wise old man)
  • Saint

Cao Dai Temple Tay NinhThe Three Teachings represent hierarchical levels of spiritual attainment, with buddha as the highest. The Cao Dai believe in various stages of spiritual development, from human on up are: Thần (angel), Thánh (saint), Tiên (sage), and Phật (buddha). Angels, saints and sages may have, accordingly, extremely long lives in the realms of heaven, but only buddhas are free from the cycle of birth and death.

The Cao Dai see God as the religion's founder. They believe the teachings, symbolism and organization were communicated directly from God. Even the construction of the Tay Ninh Holy See is claimed to have had divine guidance. The first disciples say they communicated with God, who gave them instructions for establishing a new religion.

As far as I understood the Cao Dai are very tolerant to other philosophies and religions who's leaders are seen in the view of the various stages of spiritual development.

The temple is worth a visit and easy to do in a day trip together with a visit to the Cu Chi tunnels. Several cafes in Saigon offer daytrips.

Cao Dai in the Holy See Tay Ninh
Cao Dai in the Holy See Tay Ninh

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