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Cycling in Malaysia


I have to admit, I have not done a lot of extensive cycling in Malaysia.

This is maybe weird because I live here. That said, I have made quite some kilometers here in the country, mostly in the north west part.

Cycling in Malaysia is a mixed though mostly very pleasant experience. People in Malaysia are less interested in cycling. Riding bicycles is for children or poor people though nowadays you will see more and more people who can afford a top notch (expensive) bicycle. These are the richer people who, it seems, love to show off.

However, when you pass, they are very interested in what, why and how you do it. Don't be surprised they give you very valuable advice to visit a nearby waterfall of cave which you would not have found in any other way.

Cycling at Pulau Pangkor
Yours truly cycling at Pulau Pangkor

So Malaysia is not really a country, like for example Holland or China, where people ride bicycles. The cities are usually busy and there's little space for a bicycle to go around. Many drivers find it weird you ride a bicycle. In many people's eyes, it's too hot, too dangerous and too crazy to cycle around. The other side is that many find it fascinating you do ride here and especially in the lesser visited areas, people are proud you take the time to visit their town.

In some areas mountain biking is quite popular. In the hills of Penang (for example) you will find quite a few mountain bikers and, probably for that reason, there's an excellent bicycle shop in Carnavon Street in Georgetown: Cyclon Cycle IND SDN BHD. The address is:
216 Lebuh Carnavon (Carnavon Street)
10100 Penang

Telephone 04 2631688 Gary Yap is the owner and apart of being a nice guy, he also knows what he is talking about. He has excellent service and all the material you possibly need. I live in Sitiawan (there's a good bike shop here too: the "Iron Horse") and as you will understand, many people here know me because I ride a bicycle in the tropical heat. Some ask me how much this bicycle has cost me, while others find it incredible I came all the way from Holland by bicycle. Few realize that it took me a some years to do that. If you come or go to Singapore, you may want to check:

Cannasia (Cannondale Asia) Cannondale Centre
101 Frankel Avenue
Singapore 458224
Tel: (65) 64414772

I think cycling in Malaysia is very good to do, it's quite safe, even on the busier roads. The roads, busy or not, are usually in good condition. In fact, when you leave the ongoing big roads, it becomes surprisingly quiet. You will pass small kampongs (villages) where the time seems to have stand still, sometimes it feels like being in a time machine. And on other moments you simply end up in a festival: the Hindu Thaipusam. Here's the report!

Mosque in Penang
Mosque in Penang

I do quite a bit of cycling in Malaysia, mostly in the north west and I find it easy, along the coastline it's mostly flat but land inwards it can be surprisingly steep. Like I said, once of the ongoing roads, cycling in Malaysia is extremely nice, quiet and pleasant.

 Once off those main roads, you will enjoy the country life, see birds, monitor lizards (they call them biawaks here), some times a hornbill or a snake. Even land turtles can be seen but in the last 2 years this happened to me only twice.

Do's and don'ts while cycling in Malaysia

In the tropical heat it is necessary to keep on drinking. Fortunately drinking water is almost everywhere available, even during the Ramadan. During the Ramadan the Chinese and Indian shops and restaurants are normal open. In Malaysia, Saturday and Sunday are holidays which means the official offices and banks are in general closed. In major tourist areas as Penang, Langkawi, Kuala Lumpur and Malacca the Tourist Information office are sometimes open on Saturday and Sunday. Some good resources about Malaysia on the Internet are:

Banks are closed in the weekend but there are plenty of ATM's available, I use Maybank, as I find it the most reliable of all banks. Malaysia is a Muslim country. As Muslims do not drink alcohol you would expect alcohol is difficult to get. The opposite is true. When you are cycling in Malaysia you will find plenty of shops, local restaurants and stalls where beer and liquor are available. These shops are usually owned by the Chinese or Indians.

During the Ramadan it can be slightly more difficult to get a meal, especially in the kampongs. In the big cities all restaurants and stalls will be open at daytime. You will not suffer while you are cycling in Malaysia. During the Ramadan you will usually eat inside a restaurant even if normally you can sit outside. It's the kind of respect the local non-Muslims give to the Muslim population. Follow their respect. And the evenings... ahhh.... you will love the evenings during the Ramadan! Night markets (Pasar Malams) are plenty and offer fantastic food, the Malays make special dishes only available during the Ramadan. Cycling in Malaysia (and traveling in Malaysia in general) during this time will not be complete with a visit to one of the many pasar malams.

Ladies in Kuala Kurau
Ladies in Kuala Kurau

One thing you do have to be careful with, as always in tropical countries, is the sun. The heat at the daytime can be very intense, even if it's cloudy. Always cover you head. I use a cloth as I find it more comfortable then a hat. Shorts are no problem.

Accommodation and food

Malaysia has not the name to be cheap in Asia. However, when you are cycling in Malaysia, you will be able to keep the budget. Sure, Kuala Lumpur or Penang can be more expensive. Usually you spend more in these cities because of shopping and other temptations then room rate. The bigger town usually have hotels although they are not dirt cheap as for example in Thailand. Still, they are usually a good deal. In Penang and Kuala Lumpur you will still be able to get a decent room for around RM 30-50, but it you have to do a little for it.

Food is available in all kinds of variety. Food is a must try in Malaysia. Do not limit yourself to fried rice or fried noodles only. The three distinctive different cultural groups, Malays, Chinese and Indians all have their own style food. What Malaysia differs from other countries is that the cultural groups mix their own food with that from other groups.

Teluk Senangin, a beach near Pulau Pangkor
Teluk Senangin, a beach near Pulau Pangkor

One of my Chinese friends here in Sitiawan has as his favorite food some typical Indian food. I know Indians who loves Chinese dumplings and noodles. But the national dish of all Malaysians is nasi lemak: rice with sambal, fried eggs, cucumber, sotong (squid) or chicken. For everyone who is cycling in Malaysia this is the perfect breakfast, sometimes lunch and dinner too. While I was cycling in Malaysia I found, by accident and with help from some local people a so called Mandi Wap. This is a traditional Malaysian sauna, a herbal steam bath and not to be missed. See my story about the traditional Malaysian herbal sauna or mandi wap. Drinks can be anything, popular is ice-coffee, Chinese tea, Indians love to have balik but pepsi, soy milk and beer are available.

Langkawi

Tropical holiday paradise but also a good moment to get your bicycle and go around

Here's an overview page of Langkawi and a special cycling at Langkawi page

Cycling in Malaysia is for children and fools?
I don't think so!

Johan in the jungle near the Turtle breeding station in Segai Malaysia
Johan, cycling in Malaysia in the jungle near the turtle breeding station Segari

Now this is a very provocative statement. It's not true of course and not many people think this way, fortunately! However, cycling in Malaysia is unusual. Not many Malaysians consider bicycling a pleasant leisure activity. While I am still cycling in Malaysia many people here look in quite surprise that I prefer to use a bicycle to go around.

There are however a few people who prove the statement made here is wrong. Johan is probably the best example a local boy can do what I did. Johan, a boy from Penang, at the time of his journey8 years old cycled from Pulau Pangkor to Pulau Penang, a journey of 250 km on his little kids bike. A true adventure for my little friend. His full story can here read here.

Some more stories and pictures of Johan are available at my bicycle adventure blog Another excellent example to proof the statement wrong is David. In his early 50's David discovered cycling by accident. He got in touch with a cyclist, became fascinated by the stories this guy, a Korean, had.

 David bought a local made bicycle and started his first journey, 14 days around in Malaysia. Other journeys in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam followed. In December David, who suffers diabetics, high blood pressure and some heart problems, decided he wanted to find his roots. As a Tamil Indian, he went to Tamil Nadu in India, cycled 2500 km there and found the birthplace of his parents.

David, Johan and me in Parit Buntar
David, Johan and me, on the day when Johan and I leave for Penang

Religion and Festivals

Although Malaysia is a Muslim country it is tolerant to other religions. While you are traveling in Malaysia it is very well possible you will join in one or another festival. The most spectacular are the Indian Thaipusam and the Chinese (Taoist) Nine Emperor Gods Festival.

Both festivals are best to experience in Penang where more Chinese and Indians then in other areas in Malaysia live. Read more about Thaipusam here. The days I spend in and around the Tow Boo Kong in Butterworth for the Nine Emperor Gods festival are described here

During one of my visits in Kuala Kurau, I was lucky to celebrate the Chinese New Year with the Hokkien population of Kuala Kurau. The Hokkiens celebrate the 8th Day of the Chinese New Year which is special for the Hokkien Chinese people. The full story you can read here.

In one of my other journeys I went to visit Kuala Sepetang, 15 km west of Taiping. Here is a mangrove forest worth a visit. I also visited twice Mr. Chuah's family business: a charcoal factory. That was another amazing experience.

The charcoal factory of Mr. Chuah in Kuala Sepetang

Going to and from Malaysia: the North West

North West Malaysia has three borders open. Padang Besar is the most used, here you find more about Perlis, Kedah and the road to Penang from Pedang Besar.

Langkawi is also a good island to cycle. It's a popular destination for cyclist coming from Thailand on their way to Penang. There's a ferry to and from Langkawi/Satun. Read more about Langkawi.

Betong, 115 km east of Penang is the third border crossing. Few people use it but it's a beautiful road and opportunity to experience rural Thailand/Malaysia. Here's more about possible journeys in north Malaysia: the road to Betong and another road to and from Thailand

Another adventure I had was a meeting with a cobra. I cycling in Malaysia, more precisely near Bruas (Taiping area) over a cobra. Read more about my adventure with the cobra near Bruas

As you see, even the locals get a bicycle and get on the road. Fortunately more and more people get bicycles and do some healthy business. After all, cycling is fun! I am not the only foreigner who loves Malaysia.

Patrick van der Meer has traveled all over the world and wrote a website about his travels: Adventure Travel Tales and Tips. Special for this website he wrote a story about his experiences in Malaysia. He has a good story to tell, I hope you will enjoy it as much as I did! Patrick's adventures in Malaysia

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Nine Emperor Gods Festival

The Nine Emperor Gods festival is a festival celebrated in many countries including Malaysia. I was guest of Mr. Chandra and Mrs. Pearly and together we visited the festival in Penang and Butterworth. Read more here about the Nine Emperor Gods festival

Charcoal Factory

Near Taiping, north west Malaysia are still charcoal factories. I had a look and found it very interesting

Charcoal production

Read the full story here

Patrick in Malaysia

Stories from the travel curve, here's Patricks contribution about traveling in Malaysia

Patrick's adventures in Malaysia

Johan's 4 day journey, 250km from Sitiawan to Penang

Talk about bicycling. You can't start young enough. Johan bicycled from Sitiawan, 250km to Penang. Johan was 8 years old.

On the way to Penang

Johan's journey

Penang to Pangkor

An alternative road, nicer and more quiet. You start in Kulim and then go to Taiping and Pangkor

Here are the details for cycling from Penang to Pangkor

Langkawi

Tropical paradise some call it. It's a good holiday but also a good bicycling option.

Langkawi

Here's our Langkawi page with general info and the special cycling at Langkawi page