Bicycling to Zhaoxing

Zhaoxing is a little Dong village north west of Guilin. It's the kind of village you would want to visit as a foreigner because there's a lot of tradition left. This story is about a bicycle ride I did in the wrong time of the year and still enjoyed what I did.

Zhaoxing is a little Dong village in Guizhou province. Most people only visit the village if they have time. This makes sense because it's a kind of dead end street town. The village is about 6 hours traveling by bus from Sanjiang, which is a whole day bus journey from Guilin. And after Zhaoxing? If you have the time you can continue traveling to Kaili and Guiyang, the capital of Guizhou province but these two cities have little to offer unless you want to see more of the "real and touristy unspoiled China". Sure, there's amore minority villages (mostly Miao) to see, and more rice terraces but by that time you have already seen quite a few.

Thus, why go to Zhaozing? The reason is simply: Zhaoxing is completely traditional with several Wind and Rain Bridges and Don Drum Towers.

Bicycling to Zhaoxing.

There are limited options to visit Zhaoxing. Many people decide to visit the little village by either bus or taxi. However, it's still a two days journey at least from Guilin. I did the journey by bicycle in early June. And trust me, early June is NOT a good time to travel in south China.

I left Chengyang Qiao early in the morning. It was about 20 km south to Sanjiang, most along the river and it was a pleasant road. After Sanjiang the road was mostly not really paved. And then the rain started. It wasn't hard rain and it wasn't cold and I didn't have to climb much but with these road and weather conditions it was not that easy.

There are ways to go to Zhaoxing, the normal one follows the 321, a road that connects Guilin with eventually Guiyang and even Chengdu. There's a junction close to Zhaoxing with only a few kim to go and you see the village in the valley.

I however decided to travel a junction earlier. This road would be more challenging then I expected. At first there were a few villages and while the road worsened it also started to climb up. It was not what I had expected but it was very scenic.

However, it was because of the weather and road conditions also very difficult. But as it usually goes, when you think of giving it a nice long break to rest, you're on top of the hill and see the destination. It was only then I realized I had taken the wrong road as I approached the village from the north side.

The rain was now so heavy I didn't dare to get my camera to have some photos. Slipping and sliding I made it to the village where I found a little cozy guesthouse to clean myself and dry my dirty clothes.

Zhaoxing village

What do people do in a village like Zhaoxing? As said, it's a traditional village, build in traditional Dong style with Drum Towers and Wind & Rain Bridges. I stayed close to the old market in the heart of town. Farmers from around came in the morning to sell their products. Not only vegetables are sold, meat too. Some of the meat is already slaughtered, but there's a lot of activity in living animals, mostly chicken, ducks and a few cows.

Shops offered mostly hardware products. Products sold are basic, as most people build their own things.

There are always a lot of people in and around those little shops but I doubt many come to shop, it seemed more socializing then buying. And almost everywhere there is the sound of chainsaws and welding. While some work, other seem to be more interested in a game of Chinese Chess or Mah Jong.

On the street I see plenty of old women walking with enormous weights of wood on their back. I guess I would faint with such weights but they walk their whole life like this.

An little old woman tries to sell her few vegetables. Even if I am sitting I am taller then she is. Most likely her children work on the land and this way the old lady can be useful for the family. Remember, this is rural China.

A very well dressed man walks by but even though he has a clear white shirt and neat trousers, he wear old sandals and no socks. A few men are busy with a truck of flour.

The street is incredibly clean, not a twig is to be seen. I wonder where these people drop their garbage. When I reach the river I have the answer. It's a very gloomy day but through the rain I can see a few nice cars entering the village. Because of the rain I have left my camera in the hotel. Apparently the village is visited by some officials. The rain pours harder, I decide to find a meal and some dry clothes. Little will I know at that moment the next day I will cycle to Liping, most of the time wading in the mud. Cycling is not always easy.

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